Organic Coffee at El Ocaso in Salento

 
OBELO | Organic Coffee Farm

Colombia is the third largest producer of coffee in the world, following Brazil and Vietnam.

While we were in Salento we took a tour of a sustainable coffee farm, El Ocaso, and learned about the various stages of the coffee production process: planting, harvesting, milling, roasting and brewing.

OBELO | Organic Coffee Farm

El Ocaso is uniquely situated at 1,780 meters (5,840 feet) above sea level, the perfect altitude for growing coffee.

As part of the rainforest alliance, they grow 12 different varieties of trees every 70 hectares. This helps with soil fertility by creating a diverse and balanced environment for the coffee plants to thrive. Plantains are one of the many plants cultivated alongside coffee. They not only provide a food staple for the region, but also create a micro climate for the coffee plants. Their massive, umbrella-like leaves shade the coffee trees from direct sunlight, so the coffee trees can focus their energy on producing fruit instead of trying to keep cool. Shade from the Plantain leaves is also helpful when harvesting ripe coffee fruits.

OBELO | Planting Coffee

Planting

Coffee seeds (aka the bean) from coffee cherries are planted into fertile river soil where they quickly grow into little match-like sprouts called fosforos. As the sprouts continue to grow, the seeds fall away and two leaves unfold like wings. This stage is called Chapolas, named after butterfly native to the region.

OBELO | Planting Coffee

Healthy Chapolas are then transfered from the soft river soil to bags of nutrient rich, composted soil.

Once the Chapolas are about a foot and a half tall they are planted in ground. Coffee plants produce coffee fruit for five years, the third year is the most fruitful.  

OBELO | Soca

After the fifth year coffee trees stop bearing fruit. They are cut to about a foot tall, so that a new tree will grow from the existing root structure and produce another five years of fruit.   After another five years, the new trees stop bearing fruit. After a third and final cutting, or Soca, they produce coffee fruit for 4 years.

Thats makes for a total productive lifespan of about 20 years from the coffee trees at El Ocaso.

OBELO | Picking Coffee

Harvesting

Coffee is harvested by hand twice a year, in the spring and fall, by women who live in the area. The spring harvest here usually yields more fruit than fall.

OBELO | Coffee Cherry

Milling and Drying

After harvesting the ripe cherries are depulped, washed and then dried in the sun.

OBELO | Drying Coffee Beans

After drying, before roasting, the dried shells are removed to get the "green beans" or unroasted coffee beans.

OBELO | Drying Coffee Beans

Roasting and Brewing

El Ocaso works with local roasters to make a variety of light and dark roasts. Light roasts actually have more caffeine than dark roasts because caffeine is lost during the roasting process.

OBELO | Coffee Sock
OBELO | Coffee Brewing
OBELO | El Ocaso Coffee
 
OBELO | Organic Coffee Production Process

Salvo Patria in Chapinero

 

Salvo Patria is hidden in the slopes of Chapinero. It's situated on a corner, in a quaint, old-timey, two story house with exposed brick, hard wood floors and large sun lit rooms.

OBELO Salvo Patria
OBELO Salvo Patria

The concept is simple, dishes themed around Colombian cuisine, using few, but really flavorful ingredients. Salvo Patria also takes its coffee seriously, buying directly from farmers in Huila and Tolima, so most people hang around after lunch to enjoy a cup of coffee.

OBELO Salvo Patria

At night the place doesn't completely transform, but the vibe changes as cocktails flow out of the bar non-stop and small plates fill the tables. It's a great way to get the night started.

 
Pulpo a la Plancha

Pulpo a la Plancha

Bondiola de Cerdo Braseada

Bondiola de Cerdo Braseada

Milhoja de la Patria, Arequipe y Vanilla

Milhoja de la Patria, Arequipe y Vanilla

 
OBELO Salvo Patria
OBELO Salvo Patria
 
 
OBELO Salvo Patria
 

Salvo Patria · Bogotá · Website · Directions

Lunch at La Principal in Bogotá

 

La Principal is great for a leisurely lunch or casual dinner. Their dishes are interpretations of regional dishes from all over Colombia with an ultra modern twist and stunning presentation. They really value design, which shows in everything from the decor to the menu to how dishes are plated.

La Principal Bogota
La Principal Bogota

Crema de Ñame is a velvety soup whose main ingredient is ñame, a large tuber originally from Africa brought to Colombia during the colonial period. The ñame is blended with cream, sweet chili and purple onions. Served over fried queso costeño, platano maduro and ñame chips, then topped with fresh coriander.

Crema de Ñame from the Sinu region

Crema de Ñame from the Sinu region


1 // Marranitas Fried plantain stuffed with chicharrón also called Juan Valerio in Tolima and Cabeza de gato on the Caribbean Coast

2 // Carimañolas Fried yucca pie stuffed with ground pork and beef cooked in cumin

3 // Aborrajados Fried ripe plantain stuffed with mozzarella cheese and guava jam served with ají chili sauce

Surtido de Fritos served with avocado cream, hogao and sweet and savory ají

Surtido de Fritos served with avocado cream, hogao and sweet and savory ají


1 // Arepa Guajira
2 // Arepa Boyacence
3 // Pandeyuca de Achiote
4 // Pandebono
5 // Arepa Encocada
6 // Almojábana

La Parva, artisenal breads from many different regions, baked in a wood fired oven

La Parva, artisenal breads from many different regions, baked in a wood fired oven


Trout sausage seasoned with guasca and onions, served over anise flavored mashed squash made with aguardiente and wrapped in a corn husk. Topped with fried trout skin, beet chips and grilled red onion. Savory ají on the side.

Salchicha de Trucha

Salchicha de Trucha


Guanábana, lulo and queso campesino ice cream over crumbled cookies with dark chocolate cookie bark and a side of home made cotton candy.

Helados Artesenales

Helados Artesenales

La Principal · Bogotá · Directions · Facebook

 

Arab Influence on Colombian Cuisine

 
OBELO | Los Turcos

In the late 19th and early 20th century there was a mass migration from what is now Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Palestine to Latin America. Immigrants were looking to escape repression and hardships of, the then, Turkish Ottoman Empire. Yet ironically, they were called Turks, or Turcos, in their new homes in Latin America.

My family immigrated from Lebanon to Colombia in 1890. Like many others, they brought their culture and cuisine from the Middle East.

Los Turcos is a popular, authentic Lebanese restaurant in Cali. They've been serving up traditional dishes since 1960. Although they relocated from their original location, the vibe hasn't changed a bit.

Hummus, Babaganoush, Tabouleh and Tzatiki with Pita.

Hummus, Babaganoush, Tabouleh and Tzatiki with Pita.

Liver with fried onions and potatoes.

Liver with fried onions and potatoes.

Arab Platter, Bandeja Árabe, marcona almond rice, fried kibbe with onions, tabouleh and warm grape leaves.

Arab Platter, Bandeja Árabe, marcona almond rice, fried kibbe with onions, tabouleh and warm grape leaves.

 
OBELO | Los Turcos
OBELO | Los Turcos

Don Elias' Organic Coffee Farm

 
OBELO | Coffee Cherries

Don Elias' small, old-school organic coffee farm is located in Salento, Quindío. We took a tour this past winter while staying at La Serrana, a mountain top farmhouse-turned-hostel. The tour was lead by Don Elias' grandson, who actually grew up in Jersey but has gone back to Colombia to give tours and run a tejo bar in town.

Ripe Arabica coffee cherries, one is a typical variety and the other is the Colombia variety.

 
 

Coffee beans drying in the sun.

Green beans before roasting.

After roasting and ready to enjoy! ☕